The Full Story (Collection)

This post is dedicated to the SDS task set from session 5, as I talk you through my design choices for the winter collection we were tasked to create.

For my collection, I decided to create a new colour story to work with, as I felt the ones I had previously created were not quite seasonal enough and I didn’t like how varied the colour range was. For this, I used Ed Ruscha’s work “Standard Station (1966)”. I found I was able to extract some good winter colours from this artwork, yet still have that use of primary colours that Ruscha paints with. I also like the tones in the colour story as well.

I redefined the design work I did during the session onto templates and added more designs, creating seven in total. I found drawing the side views of these a bit difficult, discovering I need to work on my lack of perspective. I used my brand heritage report and this new colour story to guide the balance between my artist and my brand and to make sure they reflected both effectively. I also used a watercolour pen as the medium for all of these drawings, as it was the medium I felt most comfortable creating colour with and also had a solid range of shades available to me.

Design #1

This design I worked on after developing it during this session. It is a sleeveless coat garment, with a diagonal cut across the front and back. I chose black leather and brown-gold fur as the fabrics, creating contrast within the garment and making it more of a statement. The shape is quite outwardly structured, as you will see is the case for most of the rest of my collection as well. The pants I’ve drawn with it are not part of the collection, but simply there to complete the outfit. The colours I used came from my colour story and the fabrics from the fabric board we created during the session.

When creating this, I had the idea of a Tom Ford-esque collection of garments, bringing Gucci back to the days of glamourous pieces that almost come off in an elitist manner.

Design #2

My second design takes more inspiration from Gucci’s current creative director, Alessandro Michele, as I feel this design has a more fantastical flare to it, with the fire like structure acting as wings. I decided to go one coloured on this one, a bold red, to further make it more outstanding. I also used a faux fur material, as this design reminded me of Tom Ford’s FW 1995 collection and his use of a similar fabric on a bright orange coat and I really liked the single statement that piece made.

Design #3

This garment is a dress, that is again only one solid colour. It has a large wing-like structure, again also stemming from Michele’s influence. I chose bamboo as the fabric I wanted to use, as I liked its eco-friendly appeal, but also like the idea of it in satin perhaps? I also liked the idea of bamboo, as it would bring in Gucci’s iconic use of the material in their bamboo handle bags. The side view drawing in this design is quite unfulfilling, as I can’t quite envision what the side would look like. Despite Michele’s influence, I would like this design to hold a more Tom Ford glamour to it.

Design #4

This design is based off the original design I drew in our first design session from this term. It is a cape coat, with a large shouldered structure. I used a mix of colours for this; red, blue and the brown gold all from the colour story. The blue portion of the design acts as a satin blouse underneath, with faux leather cuffs in a tan. However, I wasn’t able to judge an overall fabric type for this design, as I’m not quite sure what would hold such a structure.

Design #5

The pleats on these pants came from a pleated dress design I drew in the first design session. I chose for them to be grey as I had two grey tones in my colour story and also wanted to inject some neutrality into my collection. I envision a silk/ satin fabric for them and also included a wide belt at the top with the iconic gucci stripes in the green and red.

Design #6

This garment is an upside-down skirt in a blue tone, hung up by suspenders fashioned with the iconic Gucci stripes. I added my own details – suspenders with Gucci signature colours as a timeless key design feature (often placed as a belt on dresses), as I struggled with how plain my designs were and wanted to add in detail through brand heritage.

Design #7

This last design is a gown with flared sleeves in a brown hold and cadet blue colour palette. As the 7th design I drew, I became a little lost for fabric ideas by the end and wasn’t feeling particularly inspired with this one, in terms of colour choices or where I wanted to head with it

Overall

My design skills I feel have improved since the beginning of this course and my knowledge of brand and artist I feel has grown exponentially. However, I still hold doubt in my designs and whether they fulfil the requirements of a winter collection and going forward, would like feedback from my peers and tutors to let me know about the viabilities of my colour and fabric choices. I am glad, though, that I pushed myself to go beyond the minimum of 6 designs, and feel I have a good foundation for my final designs.

References:

• Ruscha, E. (1966) Standard Station [Screenprint]. MoMA, New York City. (Accessed: 17 January 2021).
• Vogue (no date) Gucci Fall 1995 Ready-To-Wear. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-1995-ready-to-wear/gucci (Accessed 18 January 2021).